Ramadan Identity
You have to go back to the Middle East, the feeling boomed.
December 2023 : Dubai Cop 28 (with Ryan)
February 2024 : Dubai Fashion Week & Dhaka
March 2024 : Istanbul & Dubai Art (Driving) & Sharjah & Abu Dhabi (Louvre - dinner) & Riyadh / Diriyah Biennale
April 2024 : Jeddah, Makkah, Madinah, Al Ula & Dubai & Cairo (with Persia)
I certainly did. It was the first time I had felt safe in a many years.
I had spent a long time checking the lie of the land. A way to understand unfamiliar territories. I was notoriously bad with following maps. But very at home getting lost to see what others don’t see who follow the standard route. And it had taken me to to COP28 and back.
The identity of the Middle East had been going through quite a transformation over the last 2 decades or may be for a long time longer than that and accelerating the last few years. Driven by climate change of course. Oil rich countries leading the way. It seemed counterintuitive. But what had been achieved without their input ? Not enough.
There needs to be move away from short termism. Climate change is a long game, so the countries with progressive leadership in long-termism were in a position to make the much needed impact. A whole lifetimes work needed not just elected rulers coming and going presenting policies for votes. Monarchies who can get on with their job rather than distract themselves trying to canvas as they kind of a vested interest in their own country. And boy do we need those very ones most involved in energy to be the ones who can truly make the change, as much I would like to believe it is going to be anyone else.
There were a number of these more long-termism potentials … the muslim monarchies ( Brunei, Bahrain, Jordan, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates ) within the MENA region. And to note in particular the fastest growing were — Saudi Arabia, the UAE and Egypt.
Middle East North Africa Countries https://www.britannica.com/place/Middle-East
While we were at Cop28, Dubai, we had met many people from international communities, and in particular I met a few from Saudi Arabia at the networking event for sustainable fashion. I had seen in LinkedIn an old industry contact who I had crossed paths with when he was the head of CSR for Gucci from way back when (2010), from my own sustainable fashion days way back when was now the Chief Executive Officer, Fashion Commission at وزارة الثقافة Ministry of Culture in Saudi Arabia.
As with UAE, there was an optimism and mood for development and creativity. Work to do be done for dedicated talent potentially from all around the world.
RIYADH (NOT YET RAMADAN)
So I booked my tickets to Riyadh.
I had a telegram call with Irini. To note WhatsApp calls do not work in the Middle East. Digital comms had failed me for years now because of Yates and then Grimes stalking me through these apps. And it seemed wonderful to be in a place where actually there as just one level of surveillance. And I had nothing to hide from that level.
I said to her I was worried about what to wear. And she said it was like Dubai but more conservative. Still I wasn’t sure.
I had some scarves and salwar camises I wore at Bangladeshi community events - we tend to wear an array of bright colours, patterns, much of time embellished heavily. I also picked up a few pieces which could cover my mindi parabolas. A footnote … my best mate from when I was a teenager Ehpriya (Sikh Kenyan Panjabi lived next door to me in Birmingham) and created our own bestie words and when we referred to those from Indian sub continents including ourselves ….went from Indians to Indies to Mindies. So us mindies. .. and our curves ….always getting us into trouble.
Ok so … alongside With the divorce, I had moved to my own flat with only a portion of possessions. So I was in a little disarray - had clothes over at my late parents house and also at my ex husband’s place. But luckily my partner didn’t gaslight me about, or cause any chaos especially to highlight this disarray as a disorder so that his ex girlfriend could pretend to have a job so that she would stop attacking him.
And I ordered a couple of more traditional items from Abaya.com - a modest wear online company.
But mostly it wasn’t about that, it was I think the British mainstream media didn’t really portray Saudi Arabia in a clear way.
But on the other hand, I wanted to discover by being there with my own eyes. It was no secret Saudi Arabia had plenty of malls for me to get kitted out. Generally I got the impression that men and women … on the muslim spectrum… I am officially on the spectrum … the muslim spectrum, chuckle, anyway yes generally were more covered up then westerners.
And actually some Muslim women didn't wear head scarves, but wore base ball caps, or had their hair neatly tied up with abayas and casual trainers.
I had worn a tie dyed black silk oversized box shirt with wide leg Levi’s. I had picked up a long crush look 80s pink mac at a vintage shop in London Bridge the week before. I figured it could be my abaya equivalent and possibly less could look ok creased as I was travelling about. I was rockin’ the crossover east west look.
On the plane I put on smudge proof red lipstick. It was very red. And I had a long lime green scarf. Lime green had been a go to colour for me over the years, it suited my skin tone and I loved colour. Most of the local women wore more neutral colours on the whole.
In the queue through immigration, I struggled with the scarf as I wasn’t used to it. It was slip sliding all of the over place as I tried to find my passport or crouched down or just breathed aaaggh. Wearing scarves and draping fabric had become an art in the Middle East.
Everyone else seemed pretty sorted with their scarves. The airport men wore black and white Kuffiyeh tied neatly up with a circular agal. Kuffiyeh (aka ghuttrah, shemagh, hattah) - practical and protective attire against the harsh arid environment had originated from Bedouins (C7th) - ‘the earliest reliable picture (1834) of such depicts the final imam of the Emirate of Diriyah, Abdullah bin Saud.[6]’.
“The hijab, however, as well as other traditional modest garments, including the abaya and the jilbab—cloaks that envelop the body from the neck down—and face-covering niqab played a much more complex role for women who wore them than helping them gain social approval. For many women, wearing the hijab was—and is—an element of piety.“ Check - the style section
I wasn’t sure what kind of place to get so I booked a place in … initially I was dropped off in a dusty part of town on a busy road a little way from the hotel I had booked. I had no bearings of where to stay and I wanted a more real experience so had booked a place with decent reviews which seemed reasonably priced.
At the airport I went to a taxi booth and they ordered a cab for me. It was very easy. I was very tired and hot. The journey did not take that long and I stepped out of the cab and walked on uneven paving past modern interiors showrooms and some cubby hole open workshops with casual attired men.
I entered into one hotel with a large dark coloured foyer and a little internal cafe. I sat about for a few minutes before the guy at the desk told me that actual hotel was their sister hotel a bit further up and across the road and his colleague would accompany me over there. I was open to it. We walked up a busy road, it was like running the gauntlet to get to the other side.
This sister hotel looked a little run down from the outside but seemed clean with again a little internal cafe. The guy at reception an Egyptian named Mustapha quickly checked me in. I had booked ahead. He took me to the room.
It was absolutely horrendous. I just wanted to lie down and have a sleep. But it was just so bad.
Photos -
I went back to Mustapha and said that I could not stay even one night and wanted my full money back. We argued a bit - he said as I had already paid ahead I would have to stay one night. I mentioned that as a solo female traveller which is quite unusual in these regions which is actually safe, I would obviously tell others and I had travelled a lot and was one of the top reviewers on Tripadvisor (been a member since 2008) .. ..He said to me - ok how many followers do I have on instagram ? Questioning my legitimacy. What presence have I built up ?
I said it didn’t matter. I could be anybody. But being one of the top reviewers in Tripadvisor for instance (I actually stopped posting reviews in 2016 and still have 100 000 views/ top 1% member of Tripadvisor and there were 490million users / billions of reviews on Tripadvisors so you have no idea who might be looking at your posts) so potentially I could complain about my experience and review etc. and a female traveller who wanted to come to Riyadh they would see my review and they could tell all their friends … this is not good for Saudi Arabia or for female travellers. Whereas a good review would do the opposite. I was actually trying to help him. I want others who might be scared to venture into different types of holidays to have adventures.
His team kindly gave me bottled water. He was a lovely man actually and I told him so and that I realised he had had a job to do. I could see he had a little smile behind the argument and to reiterate I never felt threatened by him or the situation. But my goodness I was tired.
Anyway I remembered that there was a caveat on booking.com which meant I could get my full money back. I did find this men women thing a bit confusing so I was keen to get it right.
I rebooked myself into the Holiday Inn Riyadh Izdihar. Initially I wanted to stay somewhere standard for a few days and then the last 1 or 2 nights treat myself to a a more luxury boutique experience. It had been a difficult 12 months and I love fancy hotels.
The Holiday Inn was a smart business hotel with 2 hotel buildings across the road from eachother, with an actual conference with many international hotel guests milling about attending a health business event.To note some international women were wearing suits and over the knee skirts or flowing dresses. The hotel pool was not available for women and the well equipped gym had women only times. Personally I enjoy free weights and a treadmill / walking.
The whole reception area and foyer was infused with sweet calming incense and had bustles of fabric arranged from the ceiling.My bedroom was large and airy on the ground floor. Ahhh time for some well deserved sleep.
I didn’t want to have the breakfast buffets … I find myself just eating too much particularly if I have the option of curry and dhal.
JEDDAH
According to popular legend, in the year 26 ah/647 ce caliph ʿUthmān decided that Jeddah was to be the port of Mecca (Pesce 1976: 61;Ṭarābulsī 2008: 147). The origins of this legend can be traced back to the third/ninth century (Hawting 1984). What appears to be true is that, since the rise of Islam, the city of Jeddah has served as a transshipping location for merchants and as a transit point for pilgrims on their way to Mecca, around 70 km away.1 By the late nineteenth century, the city of Jeddah was organised in a way that facilitated the passage from the port to Mecca and Medina, two cities that are holy for Muslims. The inhab- itants of Jeddah seem to have been well aware of this function of their city. In his autobiography, ʿAbdullāh Manāʿ writes: ‘We knew since our childhood that [our city] was the entrance hall (dihlīz) or the gateway to the two Holy Cities’ (2008: 69).https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1361/#:~:text=Historic%20Jeddah%20is%20situated%20on,Mecca%20who%20arrived%20by%20sea.
Historic Jeddah, the Gate to Makkah
Historic Jeddah is situated on the eastern shore of the Red Sea. From the 7th century AD it was established as a major port for Indian Ocean trade routes, channelling goods to Mecca. It was also the gateway for Muslim pilgrims to Mecca who arrived by sea. These twin roles saw the city develop into a thriving multicultural centre, characterized by a distinctive architectural tradition, including tower houses built in the late 19th century by the city’s mercantile elites, and combining Red Sea coastal coral building traditions with influences and crafts from along the trade routes.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Al-Balad,_Jeddah
Al-Balad, Jeddah
Al-Balad (Arabic: البلد), also known as Jeddah Historic District (Arabic: جدة التاريخية), is the historical area of Jeddah, the second largest city of Saudi Arabia. Al-Balad can literally be translated to "The Town".[1] Al-Balad is the historic center of the City of Jeddah.[2]
Traditional Hijazi houses are characterized by their wooden Roshan (Arabic: روشان) windows and balconies, which are similar to the Mashrabiya found in Egypt, Iraq and other countries, and to the Gallarija found in Malta (which is a descendant of the Muxrabija).
In May 2019, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman announced a multi-billion dollar restoration of 56 historical building in Al-Balad. The first stage of the restoration is worth $13.3 million.[3]
In October 2023 and in line with Saudi Vision 2030, The Saudi Public Investment Fund announced Al Balad Development Company, which aims to transform Historic Jeddah into a global tourist destination.[4]
Al-Balad was founded in the 7th century and historically served as the centre of Jeddah.[5] Al-Balad's defensive walls were torn down in the 1940s. In the 1970s and 1980s, when Jeddah began to become wealthier due to the oil boom, many Jeddawis moved north, away from Al-Balad,[6] as it reminded them of less prosperous times.[7] Al-Balad had insufficient parking space for large cars. Its stores did not sell expensive designer clothing. Poor immigrants moved in place of the Saudi population.[6] The municipality of Jeddah began historical preservation efforts in the 1970s. In 1991 the Municipality of Jeddah founded the Jeddah Historical Preservation Society to preserve the historical architecture and culture of Al-Balad. In 2002, US$4 million were earmarked for the preservation society.[7]In 2009, Al-Balad was nominated by Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities to be added to UNESCO's World Heritage list, and it was accepted in 2014.[8]
Many Jeddawis had moved away from Al-Balad by 2007; the streets of Balad were still packed with people during the month of Ramadan.[2] Around that year the Jeddah Urban Development Company was formed to restore Al-Balad.[9]
Among the most famous and oldest buildings to date are the Al Nassif House and Al Jamjoom House in Yemen neighborhood, Al Baeshen House, Al Qabal Mosque, Al Shafi'i Mosque in Al Mazloum, Dar Al Banaja and Al Zahed Houses in the Al Sham neighborhood.
The House of Saud - includes … // description.
Run by the -
Holding absolute political power, the king, appoints Saud family members to lead the ministries and also the thirteen regional governorships.
with HRH Ambassador Reema Bandar Al-Saud as the first female ambassador from Saudi Arabia in the US in February 23, 2019. In deed a lot has changed over the last 7 years in Saudi Arabia reformed by Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman (born in 1985) is the defacto ruler of Saudi Arabia (appointed prime minister in September 2022) and the last ruler to be the son of the founder of Saudi Arabia - King Salman bin Abdulaziz.
Over in the UK, it was still not common knowledge that women could drive there.
Riyadh
Diriyah
Jeddah
Makkah
Makkah & Taif // 360 movies & VR movie with commentary
Typical // from Tripadvisor :
Explore the sacred Makkah Ziyarats for a transformative spiritual journey to the holy Makkah Ziyarats: Grand Mosque, Jabal al-Nour, Mina, Arafat. Experience Islamic heritage. Our guide cum driver will take you to visit the holy and historical places in Makkah city and around. All our vehicle are air conditioned and clean.
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Ages 0-120
Duration: 2–3 hours
Start time: Check availability
Mobile ticket
Live guide: Arabic, English
Audio guide: English
What's included
What to expect
Itinerary
This is a typical itinerary for this product
Stop At: Mina, Al Mashair, Makkah Saudi Arabia
Mina, Al Mashair in Mecca, Saudi Arabia is Known for its profound spiritual significance, Mina, Al Mashair offers a remarkable pilgrimage experience and captivating historical attractions. Located in the heart of Mecca, Mina, Al Mashair is a significant destination for millions of Muslims who gather here during the annual Hajj pilgrimage. Mina, Al Mashair is renowned for its sprawling tent city, which provides accommodation for pilgrims during their stay. The tents are meticulously arranged and offer modern amenities, ensuring a comfortable and memorable experience for visitors. The atmosphere is filled with a palpable sense of unity and devotion as pilgrims from diverse backgrounds come together in worship. Mina, Al Mashair boasts a rich historical heritage. Explore the landmarks that reflect the deep-rooted traditions of Islam, including the Jamarat Bridge, where pilgrims perform the symbolic stoning of the devil.
Duration: 30 minutes
Stop At: Jabal-e-Rehmat, Mecca 24256 Saudi Arabia
Welcome to Jabal-e-Rehmat, a place of immense significance in Mecca, Saudi Arabia. Nestled amidst the majestic landscape, this sacred mountain holds great importance for Muslims around the world. Explore the spiritual aura and historical richness of Jabal-e-Rehmat, as you embark on a journey of enlightenment. Jabal-e-Rehmat, also known as the Mountain of Mercy, is situated in the plain of Arafat, just outside Mecca. It holds deep religious significance as it is the place where Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) delivered his farewell sermon during the Hajj pilgrimage. The mountain stands as a symbol of compassion and mercy, and pilgrims flock here to seek blessings and guidance. Jabal-e-Rehmat offers an extraordinary journey of the heart and soul. Plan your visit today to embrace the divine blessings and immerse yourself in the profound spirituality of Jabal-e-Rehmat, Mecca, Saudi Arabia.
Duration: 20 minutes
Stop At: مزدلفه | Muzdalifah, 9WQ7+4QP, Rd 56 - Al Jawharah, Al Mashair, Makkah 24252, Saudi Arabia
Experience the spiritual haven of Muzdalifah( مُزْدَلِفَة) in Al Mashair, Mecca, Saudi Arabia. A sacred destination of immense significance during the annual Hajj pilgrimage, Muzdalifah offers a profound experience of unity and devotion. Situated between Arafat and Mina, this blessed site welcomes millions of pilgrims who gather here to pray, reflect, and collect pebbles for the symbolic stoning of the devil. Immerse yourself in the serene atmosphere, witness the inspiring rituals, and embrace the spiritual essence of Muzdalifah, Al Mashair. Plan your pilgrimage to this sacred place and be part of an unforgettable journey of faith and piety.
Duration: 20 minutes
Stop At: Jabal al-Nour, Mecca 24238 Saudi Arabia
Discover the awe-inspiring Jabal al-Nour in Al Mashair, Mecca, Saudi Arabia. This sacred mountain holds profound significance as the site where Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) received the first revelation of the Quran. Ascend its slopes and visit the renowned Cave of Hira, where the Prophet spent time in seclusion and contemplation. Experience the spiritual ambiance, witness the breathtaking views, and immerse yourself in the rich Islamic heritage of Jabal al-Nour. Plan your pilgrimage to this revered site and embark on a transformative journey of faith and enlightenment.
Duration: 20 minutes
Stop At: Mosque of the Jinn, 8464 Al Masjid Al Haram Rd, As Sulaymaniyyah, Makkah 24231, Saudi Arabia
Experience the extraordinary Masjid Jin in Al Mashair, Mecca, Saudi Arabia. Also known as the Mosque of the Jinn, this historic place of worship is believed to have housed a group of supernatural beings mentioned in Islamic folklore. Visit this remarkable mosque, known for its unique architecture and spiritual significance. Discover the intriguing tales surrounding the interaction between the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) and the jinn. Immerse yourself in the sacred atmosphere, seek blessings, and explore the rich cultural heritage of Masjid Jin. Plan your visit to this enchanting mosque and embrace the mystical allure of Al Mashair.
Duration: 5 minutes
Stop At: Thowr Mountain, Al Hijrah, Makkah Saudi Arabia
Discover the majestic Thowr Mountain in Al Hijrah, Mecca, Saudi Arabia. Revered in Islamic history, this sacred mountain is said to be the hiding place of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) and his companion during their migration from Mecca to Medina. Embark on a pilgrimage to Thowr Mountain, marvel at its natural beauty, and soak in the spiritual atmosphere. Immerse yourself in the rich historical significance as you explore the cave that provided refuge to the Prophet and his companion. Plan your visit to this sacred site and connect with the profound journey of Al Hijrah in Mecca, Saudi Arabia.
Duration: 20 minutes
Stop At: Cave Jabal Saur, 4134، الهجرة، مكة 24241 9410،، 4134، 9410, Al Hijrah, Makkah 24241, Saudi Arabia
Jabal Sur, also known as Jabal Sawda, is the highest peak in Saudi Arabia, located in the Asir Mountains. Travelers visiting Jabal Sur will encounter stunning natural landscapes characterized by rugged terrain, deep valleys, and dramatic cliffs.
Duration: 15 minutes
Pass By: Al Rajhi Mosque, Batha Quraish, Makkah 24361, Saudi Arabia
The Al Rajhi Mosque, located in Makkah, Saudi Arabia, is a magnificent structure that offers a profound spiritual experience for visitors. Overall, a visit to the Al Rajhi Mosque offers not only a chance for prayer and reflection but also an opportunity to immerse oneself in the rich spiritual and cultural heritage of Islam.
Madinah Airport
Jeddah to Medinah Airport – we booked an Uber 823.93SAR (£175) – the journey took around 4 hours. What we really wanted to do was pick up a car from Jeddah with possibly detours in …. … ending up in Al Ula. I mean it would have been a pretty gruelling drive .. possibly 8-10hours.
So picking up from Jeddah and dropping off at Madinah airport to pick up the plane to Dubai or Al Ula to Dubai. I checked a number of websites but couldn’t seem to pick up and drop off at different places. I mean I knew this would be a more expensive option and may be a little ambitious in the time we had.
I was excited about driving around Saudi Arabia. Even educated worldly friends seemed to have outdated views that women could not drive there. But it had already been 7 yrs (26/09/17 order issued).
So a £175 uber it was to Madinah Airport.
The journey was comfortable enough. For a couple of hours we just looked out of the window at the never ending desert horizon interrupted by palms and grazing camels. Then I decided to sew up the hem of my denim coat with multicoloured thread kits from a mall in Jeddah.
This denim piece had a distressed look with raw edges. Denim is so universal and raw edges gave it an unconventionality and it went with my boots. This might be my go to long jacket abroad. So I hemmed it up with different colour thread – so far I had been using safety pins. It was kind of a fun effect and I wanted to be more creative with it – in the back of car with time to kill – just an update I ended up cutting the edge / hem off to complete the overall rawness. Looks great !
Al Ula
Kukeri Identity
Bulgaria’s architecture and urban art and monuments are a mixture of bold communism, shabby decommissioned Bourgeoisie, marked influences of Roman, Persian, Ottoman influences. And the emotive graffiti vibrant and established. Here are a selection from Sofia; and Plovdiv – which is known as the city of artists and the oldest city in Europe (8000 BCE).
Plovdiv library has a great example of Socilist art (Sots) with cladding made of Vratza stone, marble and granite prominent Bulgarian sculptor Stoyo Todorov (1919–1997).
Las Bolas De Fuego Identity
Flying into San Salvador from London was arduous – 9 hours to my beloved Miami 6 hour stop over and then another 3 hours. We felt quite fragile getting off the plane and were conscious to have our wits about us in case of loss or theft. The airport was small with a little park straight outside flanked by a huge tree. We had to walk past cultural shows with young ladies in bright big hooped flouncy traditional dresses promoting mobile phone companies.
Picking up the rental car was as easy as anywhere else in the world – took ages. Not one car company in the world we have rented from in over 20yrs of travel, has it not taken forever. You can usually tell the state of country by the rental car they provide. Ours was a sparkling white Toyota, no scratches and pristine inside. Air con working. Radio working. We switched onto a random radio station, also a nice way to get the local vibe … ‘Take me down to paradise city…’ in folk style. Saccharine covers of classic hard rock. Sentimental coffee shop music. It was everywhere throughout our trip.
And may be that is a good metaphor for the place. It was very relaxed. Local people we met and interacted with were so gentle and quiet. A sort of flower petal softness despite a difficult history. Apologies if that sounds a bit colonial.
As soon as we drove out of the airport (on good roads), there was a wild exoticness, luscious palms and bright bougainvillea, and clear blue skies not yet lost to pollution from over development. We stayed a few days in San Salvador and checked out both the military museum and also the Museum of Contemporary Art. The military museum was full of random assorted tanks and planes from different eras in huge colonial buildings.
And the Art museum was small but had a lot of interesting work from traditional paintings to interesting sculptures and an exhibition of local young artists. There was some VR actually !
Not the same level of graffiti art as in Mexico or Colombia. But there were lots of commissioned street art particularly along the famous Ruta de Flores. Stunning brightly coloured adobe houses with murals of volcanoes and birds. We stayed in the colonial town with cobbled streets and a big market, called Apaneca which means ‘river of the wind’ in Nahuatl in the coffee growing regions. The obligatory grand colonial cathedral with fluttery bunting, towered above the main square. There was a long queue outside in the main front courtyard and I believe it may have been a confessional queue in the open because of COVID restrictions. There were a lot of sheepish looks. Confessing with the fear of being heard by the community surely creates the biggest shame and deterrent.
And, of course everyone thought I was a local. Persia my daughter looked particularly Salvadoran. So even when I said no I was born in Bangladesh, locals would resume talking to me in Spanish anyway, in a kind of not to worry it’s fine you are one of us. I feel Iike I have already written this before when we were in Mexico. I'm very ashamed to say sometimes when you travel a lot experiences blur.
As we were there during Easter holidays, a lot of the tourist sites were full with locals. There was this one sort of themed eco park with a very high hedged maze. I felt horribly claustrophobic in the maze, which my husband and daughter persevered with for a full hour.
There were also a set of zipline related high octane activities, which personally I think should be treated with respect. Respect the ziplines. But get this ….you could ride a bicycle on the zipline, one which you could surf on and one which was more like a bungee jump. There was also very very disorientating loud dance music with scratchy base. It wasn’t right. I watched gasping with fear and awe at those who dared participate. These were one entertainment derivation too far.
The one I did do, was high swing with my daughter- NO harnesses which I guess if you decided to let go or jump off would die. But why would you ?
Once the swing started, after the initial scream, I just couldn’t stop laughing. My daughter side eyed me with slight incredulous embarrassment and then also started laughing. I love being the most embarrassing mum ever.
International tourism has been steadily increasing in El Salvador. In fact in 2019 there was a 21.46% increase from 2018.
From our observations there seemed to be 4 types :
1) The time poor luxury tourists who had their own guide taking them around the highlights of Central America. We met an Indian family from San Francisco on our proper Ziplining experience which included being squished up with them on an open top jeep up the mountainous forest.
2) The backpackers and spring breakers…backpacking throughout Central America with no planned itineraries. The consensus was everything was booked out in Costa Rica and Mexico so they had come to El Salvador, as an overspill, with plans to stay longer than expected because it was more beautiful and easier than expected. We met some on our way up the famous Santa Ana Volcano in the west of the country, in the Cerro Verde National Park. We also met other tourists whose parents had emigrated to Australia in the 1980s, but now had themselves become adults, living in the US with 4 children (homeschooling!) working in Texas in engineering visiting El Salvador for the first time.
On a side note, Santa Ana Volcano hike didn’t start 10.30am (we got there at 8.30am), we had to wait for the guide to confirm if the government to safety sign it off due to weather conditions. And you have to have a guide (there were 3 guides for about 30 people). There were also 2 armed policemen and some stray mountain dogs cheerfully accompanying us to the top.
The walk itself was not difficult but I think after our long journey to the Americas I was a bit jet lagged and struggled up the mountain though back down was fine. I felt so lame. But it was worth it, the mist totally cleared up and oh my god the views.
There were lots of squealing college age selfie-takers. There was one girl holding a Canadian flag backing closer and closer to a sheer drop off the ridge of the crater for the perfect selfie, and my mum instincts in overdrive had to tell her off .. .I shouted to her that she was about to fall and die. She did move forward closer onto the main gravel but cheekily responded ‘I love living life on the edge’. I put my hands over my daughters ears.
A lot of these backpacker types, seemed to have visited El Salvador before through American Bible groups.
3a) Which leads me to the 3rd type - old school missionaries in white vans and guitars (groups of whole families) on Christian missions. Perfectly nice people but well … charity work ok but missions ?
And finally the 4th type or may be 3b) the other soul saving evangelists - Californian crypto surfers.
Samisk Folkedag Identity
Samisk Folkedag Identity
The Scream by Munch, 1893, Sold for $119.9 million in 2012. The idea for the Scream, came to Munch when he 'heard the enormous, infinite scream of nature' inspired by a sunset …. but we all know it was about the anxiety of the modern man. We feel the utter despair - used as a pop culture reference for so much including the movie and the masks .. what was it called again ?
I had read that the seasons of long nights and no sunlight are associated with depression. There is a whole industry based on it.
But on the the contrary, Norway frequently featured in the top 10 best places to live in the world. So what was up with Munch ?
There are many many reasons to be happy in Norway compared to other countries, but every day people are still exposed to everyday awful experiences. Around half of people in Norway experience mental health problems or disorders at some time during their life. And Munch was one them and his work revolved around this. Also heavily influenced by his visits to Paris, categorised under Symbolism – focusing on the mind rather than reality.
"In my art I attempt to explain life and its meaning to myself."
He had grown up with death and sadness, he had watched his mother die at the age of 5 and then his favourite sister at (both of tuberculosis) and was brought up with his siblings by his religiously zealous father and aunt. He also suffered from physical illness during the long winter months and was kept out of school. He drew to keep himself occupied.
"My father was temperamentally nervous and obsessively religious—to the point of psychoneurosis. From him I inherited the seeds of madness. The angels of fear, sorrow, and death stood by my side since the day I was born."
His mark making and form all a reflection of his inner perspective. “Even Nature is not only all that is visible to the eye... it also includes the inner pictures of the soul.”- Edvard Munch.
So yes, one of the happiest places to live …. that’s now right ? And a lot of the greatest works art have come of from emotinal depths of pain (or religion) ….particularly street art, usually in part protest or break for freedom and traditionally from the ghetto … I was curious to know if Norway, had any of that stuff. Its heritage of Viking warriors, ancient Sami culture and survivalist explorers, gender equality and clean and green (except for the huge oil reserves). Norway is measured and rich. And officially pretty happy.
I turned up very late to a street art tour run by Hanna and James. It started in Rosenhoffgata, the grittier area (if Norway could have any gritty parts) which had become trendy with fun bars and cafes. Their company Oslo Street Art Tour, were producers of streetart, finding walls, connecting with commercial or city organisations and commissioning artists to create murals and graffiti. They also run a yearly Street Art festival in Oslo called Løkka-lykke Gatekunstfest, a zine, support the local community and follow sustainable practices.
Interview
And up North into the Arctic, yes captured a few pieces. There is a certain satisfaction factor climbing a snow mound (each step causing half a leg to be swallowed - snow falling into your waterproof boots from the top) in a carpark to scan a graffiti piece.
https://streetartnews.net/2013/09/street-art-by-phlegm-in-bodo-norway.html
Noche de Rábanos identity
Noche de Rábanos identity
Interview
Interview with Remix (insta : @RemixUno).
Remix, born and brought up in Mexico City, is a world renowned graffiti artist. He works with brands such as Nike, commissions and even during this lockdown for Mexico City. In fact we recognised his collages of realism mixed with abstract colourful works all over the city throughout our time in Mexico City. During our street art tour with Remix (airbnb experiences) he explained the history of graffiti and the different styles; the inspirations.
We finished off the tour by having a go at being graffiti artists ourselves. I have to say he was so helpful and kind. After my daughter finished her piece, she started crying because she felt her attempts were so bad (it is not easy as it looks).
Remix recounted to her that as an artist it is normal to have self doubt and that he himself cried for 2 days because of self disappointment …. and then helped her produce a new piece of work which she felt proud of.
Street art, graffiti and muralism is very important to Mexican culture and heritage. With examples of Mayan murals dating back to 8th century, Mesoamerican civilisations would ‘adorn their temples and palaces with images of religious ceremonies and historical events’. We saw many at the astonishing Anthropological Museum in Mexico City (now I know why the British Museum has so little Mexican work to display – and a good thing too!).
Mural artists, Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco, and David Alfaro Siqueiros known as the big 3 have painted Mexico’s turbulent history from the Spanish Conquest (1519), the Independence from Spain (1821) and the Mexican Revolution (1910) …. large scale.
Rivera’s - "Man at the Crossroads: Mural at Rockefeller Center" commissioned by Rockefeller was particularly controversial. Destroyed on completion because of its leftist leanings. According to David Rockefeller Sr., Rivera added a panel that the family felt was an unflattering portrait of his father. "The picture of Lenin was on the right-hand side, and on the left, a picture of [my] father drinking martinis with a harlot and various other things that were unflattering to the family and clearly inappropriate to have as the center of Rockefeller Center," he said'. Rivera later repainted it in Mexico City.
Graffiti, the edgy punk hotter sister of Murals, is flourishing in the streets of Mexica City, though it wasn’t always the case. There was a time when artists would look out for police and as the coast became clear would create a flash mob to furiously fill whole walls in minutes. Every little bit of wall would be covered across the city but considered vandalism. Nowadays, graffiti and murals are ‘in’ - a way to brighten up the urban jungle with visual narratives while connecting with youth and local talented artists. And as with other forms of Mexican art, graffiti is not afraid to tackle difficult subjects.
This protest piece relates to a national scandal - the mass kidnapping, in 2014, and subsequent murders of 43 students from Iguala by drug cartels, colluding corrupt police and government officials. At first it might seem that the ferocious tiger is large and about to pounce on the rabbits, but if you look again actually the tiger is the one cowering with fear. It depicts the anti-corruption agencies which are now keeping an eye on the police and government.
México: Cultura y Sociedad que renace by Seher One at the general comptroller’s office in Mexico City
This recent mural by artist Seher One tells the story of rebirth of Mexico, - united to helped each other and rise with strength from the rubble after the September 19 2017 earthquake which injured 30000 and killed 10000 people.
Fantasia Identity
Fantasia Identity
LiDar scans taken of shops in the La Goutte d'Or area of Paris also known as Little Africa mixed in with street art from the Belleville area. Use keys WASD or mouse to explore.
